For Fall/Winter 2017 at Pitti Immagine Uomo 91, the Tim Coppens man and woman are living in apocalyptic times. The man is Max, a young New Yorker traveling to Europe for the first time, hoping for one last renegade adventure on his dirt bike before the oceans engulf the continents. The woman is Tequila, a girl with two long braids, a white bird symbolizing peace, and a white horse. They are rebellious, but nevertheless tuned into the world around them. Max finds Tequila and the story begins.

 

This is the concept behind Coppens’ most developed and personal collection to date– a homecoming to Europe for the Belgium-born designer after five years of showing in New York.

 

Elements of the characters’ rough, Mad Max-influenced aesthetic and raw, equestrian notes run through an otherwise refined men’s and women’s offering. The ribs of a jacket are custom made in Merino wool. A clean, ivory shearling coat has moto accents in the sleeves. Lettering reading  “Acid” is reworked and displayed on Italian mill spun Merino wool knits. The words “Never Ending Fun” are printed on a graphic of an H2O bomb exploding—the image is a reference to Robert Longo’s beautiful, haunting charcoal drawings of atomic explosions. New categories for women—Coppens women’s collection has doubled for Fall 2017, taking on a decidedly feminine appeal—include expanded dressing and skirting. Details are considered.

 

These clothes are personal—touches of rave culture, the skate scene, and social and political investment shows up—and filled with dark humor. A color palette of washed-out reds, blues, and yellows, as well as muted tans, ivories, military, blacks and greys is sophisticated and singular. A pair of old Vision shorts and the cover of Frank Oceans’ blonde come to mind.

The looks bring together classic Italian tailoring and technical, athletic precision with newfound ease.

There is a coolness and a toughness, but also a sensitivity—an awareness of construction, of materials, and still more, of what is going on in the greater world—at play.

Featuring a first look at a Fat Tire motorcycle boot created in collaboration with UAS (Under Armour Sportswear) – for which Coppens is executive creative director – and sunglasses made with Berlin-based eyewear brand Mykita.