Tag: spring summer 2017

Maison Margiela Artisanal designed by John Galliano/Spring-Summer 2017

‘Artisanal’ Collection
Spring – Summer 2017
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Reality is veiled in filters and conveyed through symbols. The communication of social media is the premise for the Spring/Summer 2017 Artisanal collection in which creative director John Galliano resumes his ongoing study of global communities and interaction in a digital age. Drawing on the animated selfie filters found on social apps, garments are deconstructed and reconstructed through multiple layering until a final image comes to life. A face appears in the red and white cut-outs of a black jersey dress.

The codes of Maison Margiela are intensified in volume and shape, transforming the house’s shirtdress into a billowing moving object. A décortiqué technique is introduced as pieces from the classic masculine wardrobe are reduced to expose their essential frames normally hidden from view. This reveals the essence of garments, embodied in a decorticated shirt worn with a trench coat, or in a look fusing the memories of a ball gown and a masculine coat. Unions between contrasting fabrics and colours create reconfigurations, a form of interface inherent to social media where combined images can replace the written word to form a language.

This type of expression is exemplified in activist artwork taken from the Internet, which informs cutting and treatments throughout, and in the avatars and icons that inhabit the collection. A type of modern-day folklore, they emit tribal signals: symbols of belonging key to communication in cyberspace and beyond. “This collection is about adding filters but as much about removing them. Sharing is about connecting with a community, becoming part of a union, and relating through mutual emotions rooted in memories,” comments Maison Margiela.

Materials
Authentic menswear fabrics are used to evoke memories of classic garments. Twill, military wool and Melton wool – both heavy and light – appear in coats and jackets, while tweed is used next to contrasting satin-back crêpe in dresses cut on the bias. Chevron and herringbone are found in jackets and shorts. Delicate cloths such as lace, broderie anglaise and embroidered tulle bring out the filtering effect central to the collection. Folkloric elements take centre stage: hopsack, crochet, stencilling, and check. Opposing textures and surfaces come together to create new reactions, in polyamide, silk, satin, fil coupé, organza, taffeta, and velvet. Lining in changeant, chiffon and interlining are revealed as layers are removed to create new images.

Technique
Décortiqué is the term John Galliano uses to describe the way layers are peeled off garments to expose their essential frames. The technique lies at the heart of the collection, next to the filtrage layering of multiple fabrics like millefeuille, which builds up garments like social media filters. The idea is echoed in embroidery on top-layer transparent tulle pieces where images come to life on the backdrop of coloured garments, and in Maison Margiela’s collaboration with the artist Benjamin Shine. Here, the black tulle lining from a trench coat escapes, flowing around the body to reveal an intricately formed face hand-crafted to the coat by the artist himself, dissipating behind the form. Contrasting materials are further unified, such as the fusion of satin and tweed in dresses cut on the bias.

Palette
Colours native to military attire make up the collection’s palette of blacks, greys, reds and whites. Embroideries introduce rainbow colours evoking the graphics of animated digital filters.

Jewellery
High-polish chrome headpieces and large chrome necklaces worn on the back re-imagine traditional Dutch oorijzers, cementing the collection’s folk roots, while shattered heart pendants appear throughout. They are created in a union between crushed mirror, stones, safety pins, rings and embroideries.

GALIA LAHAV Haute Couture Spring Summer 2017

Meet: The team
DESIGNERS: Galia Lahav & Sharon Sever

SHOW PRODUCER: Dévi Sok 

SET DESIGNER: Marianne Guedin 

LIGHT DIRECTOR: Mark Vandebroeck 

MUSIC: BPC Studio 

VIDEO: Titre Provisoire 

PHOTO: Shoji Fujii CASTING: Mathilde Hesse 

HAIR STYLIST: Paolo Ferreira using Leonor Greyl products 

MAKE UP ARTIST: Carole Lasnier using NYX Professional products 

MANUCURE ARTIST: Kamel using NYX Professional products 

SOULIERS CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

RALPH&RUSSO Haute Couture Spring Summer 2017 Paris

RALPH & RUSSO

SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COUTURE COLLECTION

 

A seamless fusion of geometry, metallics, graphic florals and an underlying essence of athleticism; the Spring/Summer 2017 collection explores the coexistence of urban and natural spheres, interpreting contemporary femininity through its opposites.

 

Channeling the intersection between natural beauty and modern architecture, adornment is botanical; crystal pleated and foil fringed, synthesising the innate symmetry of nature with contemporary configurations. Lurex stitched San Gallo petals and slashed brush strokes of metallic ink add city hues to fresh garden tones of sky blue, powder pink, indigo and evergreen.

 

The reciprocal action of geometric lines, latex appliqué and the effortless ebb of frills, degradé ostrich feathers and diaphanous chiffon trains interconnect like longitudes and latitudes in homage to women; all.

DIGITAL OASIS – THE HUGO SPRING / SUMMER 2017 CAMPAIGN

This Spring / Summer 2017, enter HUGO’s Digital Oasis campaign, exploring the crossing on- and offline worlds and those who live at the intersection.

 

Shot in the desert in California, a cast of bright young things is photographed against shifting natural and man-made backdrops – from the arid landscape, punctuated by blurred pylons and pixelated shards of light, to the clicking and bleeping of a whirring power station control center.

 

The campaign features portraits of up-and-coming and established talent from the worlds of art, music, film and fashion. Each individual was chosen for his or her original spirit and energy, as part of a generation whose lives are inextricably linked with digital.

 

The line-up features musician Soko; model and actress Devon Aoki; artist Alexandra Marzella alongside her boyfriend, photographer Jasper Briggs; stylist and entrepreneur Luka Sabbat; models Anwar Hadid, Kiki Willems and Felix Gesnouin; and twin brothers Wyatt and Fletcher Shears of band The Garden.

 

The campaign was shot by photographer Harley Weir, renowned for raw and intimate depictions of her subjects. Short video vignettes run alongside the imagery, featuring Weir in conversation with the faces of the campaign. These offer a deeper look into the individual personalities of the cast, as well as their unique and often very unusual perspective on digital.

 

The cast wears new Spring / Summer 2017 styles from HUGO Menswear and Womenswear, designed under the same concept. The collection features clean silhouettes, influenced by the precision of digital, but thrown together and styled with relaxed attitude. Prints and patterns include 3D optic grids, while a bold cactus flower motif is cut, flipped and positioned onto lightweight fabrics. Inspired by the fading light of the desert at sundown, the color palette features tones of light purple, chartreuse and sahara, creating ready-to-wear and accessories that fit seamlessly into this new HUGO world.

BOSS SPRING / SUMMER 2017 CAMPAIGN

The BOSS Spring / Summer 2017 campaign sees the brand’s signature precision and clean sophistication brought into a bright new world under the artistic direction of Jason Wu.

 

Captured by photographer Karim Sadli, the new campaign is shot against a backdrop of a vast open-air environment. Transparent screens in vivid colors are the only hint of a set and look to the modernist and architectural elements that have been a constant source of inspiration for BOSS.

 

Inspired by David Hockney’s pool series, the color palette moves the campaign further into the summer. The menswear collection is characterized by earthy, masculine tones of khaki and gray, often highlighted with a touch of color. Fresh brights of electric blue, scarlet and bright forest green define the new womenswear.

 

Ready-to-wear takes a distinctly unbuttoned approach. Men’s sporty designs are crafted from weightless parachute-inspired fabrics and tailoring features light, luxe materials and soft constructions. For womenswear, sport and utility details meet perfectly undone tailoring, while feminine dresses are detailed with engineered pleats and asymmetric cut-outs, revealing sensual glimpses of skin.

 

Accessories continue this mood. Sartorial briefcases and document holders in fine, textured leather complete the menswear looks. Women’s bags are relaxed and in vibrant color, and effortlessly thrown over the shoulder. A laid-back iteration of the brand’s icon, the BOSS Bespoke bag, the new BOSS Bespoke Soft makes an appearance in a beautiful shade of red.

 

BOSS Menswear introduces Victor Nylander, whose youthful and modern masculinity is a seamless match for the new collection. In her second campaign for BOSS Womenswear following the 2016 holiday campaign, Frederikke Sofie brings a soft and feminine beauty, but with an undeniably modern attitude – the essence of this season’s BOSS woman.