Tag: london fashion week mens

LFWM AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SHOW – TOM COPPENS

For Fall/Winter 2017 at Pitti Immagine Uomo 91, the Tim Coppens man and woman are living in apocalyptic times. The man is Max, a young New Yorker traveling to Europe for the first time, hoping for one last renegade adventure on his dirt bike before the oceans engulf the continents. The woman is Tequila, a girl with two long braids, a white bird symbolizing peace, and a white horse. They are rebellious, but nevertheless tuned into the world around them. Max finds Tequila and the story begins.

 

This is the concept behind Coppens’ most developed and personal collection to date– a homecoming to Europe for the Belgium-born designer after five years of showing in New York.

 

Elements of the characters’ rough, Mad Max-influenced aesthetic and raw, equestrian notes run through an otherwise refined men’s and women’s offering. The ribs of a jacket are custom made in Merino wool. A clean, ivory shearling coat has moto accents in the sleeves. Lettering reading  “Acid” is reworked and displayed on Italian mill spun Merino wool knits. The words “Never Ending Fun” are printed on a graphic of an H2O bomb exploding—the image is a reference to Robert Longo’s beautiful, haunting charcoal drawings of atomic explosions. New categories for women—Coppens women’s collection has doubled for Fall 2017, taking on a decidedly feminine appeal—include expanded dressing and skirting. Details are considered.

 

These clothes are personal—touches of rave culture, the skate scene, and social and political investment shows up—and filled with dark humor. A color palette of washed-out reds, blues, and yellows, as well as muted tans, ivories, military, blacks and greys is sophisticated and singular. A pair of old Vision shorts and the cover of Frank Oceans’ blonde come to mind.

The looks bring together classic Italian tailoring and technical, athletic precision with newfound ease.

There is a coolness and a toughness, but also a sensitivity—an awareness of construction, of materials, and still more, of what is going on in the greater world—at play.

Featuring a first look at a Fat Tire motorcycle boot created in collaboration with UAS (Under Armour Sportswear) – for which Coppens is executive creative director – and sunglasses made with Berlin-based eyewear brand Mykita.

LFWM AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SHOW – XimonLee

GQ China is proud to present XIMONLEE at London Collections Men Autumn / Winter 2017. Marking GQ China’s ongoing collaboration at London Fashion Week Mens and sees XIMONLEE join the growing list of Chinese menswear brands to show internationally, highlighting the important of Chinese menswear in the global arena and London as the heart of men’s fashion.

 

Since graduating from Parsons with the Best Menswear Designer Award in 2014, Berlin-based Chinese born Korean designer Ximon Lee has been taking his collection to brand-new places. After winning the H&M Design Award in 2015 – the first menswear designer to do so – Ximon decided to start his own eponymous line XIMONLEE. Ximon’s meticulous and highly original work has since made a strong impact within the industry.

 

Ximon views each season as a study, the realization of a sustainable concept to be revisited for the next study after. XIMONLEE’s third study – AW17 “SHAME” – started with the Chinese symbol for “shame” (羞) which is essentially a combination of the symbols for ‘beauty’ (美) and ‘ugly’（醜) leading to the exploration of the lines between conscious and unconscious.

 

However “SHAME” serves more as a play on material memories – illustrated through hidden signals or messages. Whether covered with a tapered corset hiding the body or revealing that same body through engineered cut-aways. Or while masking the boy through clusters of beaded pearls on sheer panels.

 

A succession of deconstructed leather bras mixed with bonded velvet coats hinting at the leg through high slits. Or through a series of nude figures that are woven into bloodstain and aged bronze brocade.

 

study of “SHAME”:

 

nipple / PEARL | neck / CUT-AWAY | torso / SHEER | back / HARNESS  

 

Show Contact

ximonlee@tcs-uk.net

 

XIMONLEE Press Contact

press@ximonlee.com

LFWM AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SHOW – SIBLING

A walk in a park – reggae is playing – still we think of home.

With its wild, almost obscene collage of techniques, the work of Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi is the perfect counterpart for SIBLING, whose knitwear like his work has always been a collision of colour and pattern. This season, the duo take inspiration from Barcelona’s Park Güell, where Gaudi’s trencadis technique (otherwise known as his iconic mosaics) is most in evidence.

This mish mash or as SIBLING have dubbed it: Mental Mosaic informs the collection. Graphics taken directly from the tiles, in rich orange, navy and red are thrown at each other with abandon across tailored suits, bomber jackets and full bodied skirts or blown-up out of proportion to cover a hand knit. Gaudi zebra stripes are rendered in sequined navy and red or slashed across a classic cardigan. An abstract take on a leopard’s tail wends its way across a jumper or creates havoc with tailoring (replete with matching old man’s flat cap). It’s in the accessories that SIBLING’s Englishness appears, from said flat cap, to a knitted Lady Di ruffled collar, to a hat fit for Babs Windsor at a wedding – all the Windsors covered, just in case – and bound in bunting, badges and football sock bows.

Tribal pattern socks top sensible shoes, a mix of fabric backs, leather uppers in navy and deep red, and white or red soles for all squad members made in collaboration with Freakloset (www.freakloset.com) using their bespoke customization system. You can’t take it Nice ‘N’ Easy in your Sunday Best barefoot after all.

For evening, or perhaps a promenade at dusk, SIBLING’s collision of periods, colours and styles are their nod to Jamaican Lee Scratch Perry. Full knit looks feature stripes in red and blue dissected by coloured bands. Knitted lurex and fabric tiles come together in a full skirt or men’s vest ‘grouted’ with hand crochet. Knit ruffles scroll across the shoulders of an almost Toreador sweater and the edge of a coat. The extravagance is a nod to the duo’s and their stylist for this season Judy Blame’s eternal inspirations: London’s Pearly Kings and Queens, a King’s Road at Jubilee take on the red, white and blue and the tough and not so tough girls and boys of East London. This Old Man via Scratch himself.

Press release: Jack Sunnucks

SHOW CREDITS
Styled by Judy Blame
Assisted by Karlie Shelley with additional hanks to Ben Fletcher
Casting by The Natalie Monroe Show
Grooming and Make-up: Sharon Dowsett
Assisted by Dominic Skinner & The MAC Pro Team
Hair by Indira Schauwecker for TONI&GUY Products
Nails by Sabrina Gayle for ORLY
Custom-made Lace Ups by Freakloset, using their bespoke customisation system at www.freakloset.com
JB Caps by Bernstock Spears for SIBLING
Italian Yarns with thanks to Zegna Baruffa
Navy Socks with thanks to FALKE
Music by Nathan Gregory Wilkins
Sibling HQ: Naomi Moore assisted by Chloe, Myrto, Martha, Charlotte, Ellen, Emily-Louse, Gina, Jimmy, Louise & Rachel
Show team: Ella Dror, Ashley Smith and the team at Ella Dror PR

BIG SIBLING LOVE & THANKS TO THE BOYS & GIRLS WHO WALKED FOR US #SIBLINGSquad

Sid & Cozette would like to also personal thank:
Judy Blame for supporting us since day 1 both professionally and personally, Katie Grand for the same, Ella & Ashley for being simply the best, Karlie & the equally adorable Beulah, Kimi Homma for everything, Sarah Stokes for making our lives stress-free and Naomi Moore for taking over the reins, Sebastian Jefford for coming in after work to knit, all the marvelous interns, Joana at FREAKLOSET for the wonderful shoes, Thelma, Paul & Martial at Bernstock Speirs, Jack Sunnucks for the words, Bob McCreery, David Williams, Roshan PS, Nat Monroe, Marina Leyva, Sean Delaney, Leean James, The Pearson Family, Alasdair McLellan, Richard Gray, Oscar Pinto, Dover Street Market, Maria Luisa Shanghai, Rebecca Ward, David Melrose, Stephen Falck for doing fittings over Christmas, Stephanie & Charlotte at MAC, Liv, Natasha & Maria at Beauty Seen, TONI&GUY Products, all our factories, Oliver at Robert Todds, Flynn Hall, Guy Haas, Mandi Lennard, James Hoy, Alan Drum, James ‘Sketch Fury’ Davison, the AHMD Boys: Eddie, Prem & George, Team James Long, Carsten & Yacine, David & Tris, Bella Freud & Jimmy Fox, Lilian & Jan, Michael Wiggs, Kiri Pearson, Angela Ives, Blathnaid Geoghegan, Max Beets, Sam Elliott, Portia Hunt, NOWfashion, Asia Werbel, Sarah & the team at Blonstein, all the bookers & lovely models, David Waddington & Pablo Flack, Mandi Lennard, Caroline Rush CBE and all the wonderful people at the BFC – way too many to list here but thank you all, Michelle De Conto & Jamie Gill for the mentoring, Barbara & Anna & the teams at the London Showrooms, Ben Banks, Paul Alger at the UKFT, Jim Pickles at the UKTI, Lulu Kennedy MBE, Terry Betts, Dylan Jones & GQ/GQ Style, i-D, Joseph & Nick at ATTITUDE, team ELLE, ES Magazine, Nicola Formichetti, Princess Julia, Richard Mortimer, Dougie Poynter, Hu Bing, Charlie Porter, Tim Blanks, Sophia Neophitou, Lauras Weir & Bailey, Daisy Lowe, Alexander Fury, Jerry Stafford, Anthony Miles, Kim Jones & everyone who has and continues to support us #SIBLINGsquad

WWW.SIBLINGLONDON.COM