Tag: Fashion Show

Moschino 2017 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall

The place: an ancient palazzo. The time: an indeterminate future. The collection: a curated clash between dystopia and hope presented by Moschino designer Jeremy Scott.

For Pre-Fall and Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 we are on a mission. The models emerge into the scarlet glow of digital clocks set to countdown.  The collection is half artful collision, half meaningful division.

The baseline uniform is military. Olive cotton drill and parachute silk are issued as jumpsuits, elongated MA1’s, field jacket skirts, and camouflaged combat separates. These are worn alongside webbing harnesses, combat boots and cavalry boots.

Ripcords provide ruche and gather, a hooded wind-cheater is deployed as a ruffled dress, and that camo’s color-scheme is twisted from you-don’t-see-me to oh-please-do: but this much more than a by-the-numbers subversion of military gear.

Because – BANG – there are tulle-pumped evening gowns and tailcoats strafed with scenes of conflict. Elegance fighting back, beauty uprising. These scenes run from Italianate frescoes depicting the eternal struggles through to Transformer laser-lit panoramas of epic battles in space. Sometimes the decoration is a source of conflict: a fresco half painted over by heavy black brushstrokes, an olive drill evening gown or overprinted denim jacket daubed with the outline of roses. There are other tensions, other ambiguities at play here too. Moschino-classic black leather biker pieces are cut in with panels of gold on back floral jacquard: hard and soft. Jeremy Scott is proud to have recruited Judy Blame to contribute his hand-hewn headpieces: berets strafed with metal hardware that resemble disassembled Swiss Army knives. Beauty conjured up through the magic of feeling. Pre-Fall or Pre the Fall? From then, for now, until when? Beauty and freedom are worth fighting for. That marabou rainbow burns brightest when set against a dark background. This season Scott delivers an anti-uniform for whats to come. So rise up and get dressed before the clock counts down to zero.

 

 

 

Hair: Neil Moodie at Bryant Artists for Windle & Moodie

Makeup: Kabuki and the M·A·C PRO team

Stylist: Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele

Music: Michel Gaubert

Headpieces: Judy Blame

Set design: Gary Card at Streeter’s

Production: Random Production

Boss Womanswear SS17

Fluid silhouettes, loose layers and subtle structure in bold, vibrant colors are skillfully combined with the utility details of sportswear to create an athleisure collection for the modern woman.

 

Taking inspiration from David Hockney’s ‘A Bigger Splash’ painting from 1967, with its vivid hues, architectural lines and laid-back summer vibe, artistic director Jason Wu introduces a sporty aesthetic and functional details to the impeccable and elegant world of BOSS Womenswear for a match made in heaven.

 

Relaxed tailoring, perfected on the BOSS runway last season, is given a sportswear twist, with internal drawstrings, adjustable straps and color-contrast pleats making an appearance. Fabric belts are tied loosely at the side of wide-leg shorts evocative of tennis apparel, while mesh layers add an athletic touch to dresses that gently skim the body and finish at half length. Undone jackets and gilets combine form and function with oversize pockets.

 

This season’s key primary tones – electric blue, scarlet and forest green – provide the perfect choice for color-blocking with added impact. Distinctive cut-out dresses make a statement in bold solid hues, while asymmetrical bands of contrasting colors combine effortlessly on pared-back dresses and shirts.

 

Conventional tailoring has been softened, feminized and refined, and balanced with an athleisure allure, while an energetic color palette delivers an upbeat mood this season. The contemporary functionality of the pieces allows them to be versatile and easy to wear for all occasions, a philosophy at the heart of the collection.