Tag: trends

Moschino 2017 Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall

The place: an ancient palazzo. The time: an indeterminate future. The collection: a curated clash between dystopia and hope presented by Moschino designer Jeremy Scott.

For Pre-Fall and Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 we are on a mission. The models emerge into the scarlet glow of digital clocks set to countdown.  The collection is half artful collision, half meaningful division.

The baseline uniform is military. Olive cotton drill and parachute silk are issued as jumpsuits, elongated MA1’s, field jacket skirts, and camouflaged combat separates. These are worn alongside webbing harnesses, combat boots and cavalry boots.

Ripcords provide ruche and gather, a hooded wind-cheater is deployed as a ruffled dress, and that camo’s color-scheme is twisted from you-don’t-see-me to oh-please-do: but this much more than a by-the-numbers subversion of military gear.

Because – BANG – there are tulle-pumped evening gowns and tailcoats strafed with scenes of conflict. Elegance fighting back, beauty uprising. These scenes run from Italianate frescoes depicting the eternal struggles through to Transformer laser-lit panoramas of epic battles in space. Sometimes the decoration is a source of conflict: a fresco half painted over by heavy black brushstrokes, an olive drill evening gown or overprinted denim jacket daubed with the outline of roses. There are other tensions, other ambiguities at play here too. Moschino-classic black leather biker pieces are cut in with panels of gold on back floral jacquard: hard and soft. Jeremy Scott is proud to have recruited Judy Blame to contribute his hand-hewn headpieces: berets strafed with metal hardware that resemble disassembled Swiss Army knives. Beauty conjured up through the magic of feeling. Pre-Fall or Pre the Fall? From then, for now, until when? Beauty and freedom are worth fighting for. That marabou rainbow burns brightest when set against a dark background. This season Scott delivers an anti-uniform for whats to come. So rise up and get dressed before the clock counts down to zero.

 

 

 

Hair: Neil Moodie at Bryant Artists for Windle & Moodie

Makeup: Kabuki and the M·A·C PRO team

Stylist: Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele

Music: Michel Gaubert

Headpieces: Judy Blame

Set design: Gary Card at Streeter’s

Production: Random Production

LFWM AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SHOW – TOM COPPENS

For Fall/Winter 2017 at Pitti Immagine Uomo 91, the Tim Coppens man and woman are living in apocalyptic times. The man is Max, a young New Yorker traveling to Europe for the first time, hoping for one last renegade adventure on his dirt bike before the oceans engulf the continents. The woman is Tequila, a girl with two long braids, a white bird symbolizing peace, and a white horse. They are rebellious, but nevertheless tuned into the world around them. Max finds Tequila and the story begins.

 

This is the concept behind Coppens’ most developed and personal collection to date– a homecoming to Europe for the Belgium-born designer after five years of showing in New York.

 

Elements of the characters’ rough, Mad Max-influenced aesthetic and raw, equestrian notes run through an otherwise refined men’s and women’s offering. The ribs of a jacket are custom made in Merino wool. A clean, ivory shearling coat has moto accents in the sleeves. Lettering reading  “Acid” is reworked and displayed on Italian mill spun Merino wool knits. The words “Never Ending Fun” are printed on a graphic of an H2O bomb exploding—the image is a reference to Robert Longo’s beautiful, haunting charcoal drawings of atomic explosions. New categories for women—Coppens women’s collection has doubled for Fall 2017, taking on a decidedly feminine appeal—include expanded dressing and skirting. Details are considered.

 

These clothes are personal—touches of rave culture, the skate scene, and social and political investment shows up—and filled with dark humor. A color palette of washed-out reds, blues, and yellows, as well as muted tans, ivories, military, blacks and greys is sophisticated and singular. A pair of old Vision shorts and the cover of Frank Oceans’ blonde come to mind.

The looks bring together classic Italian tailoring and technical, athletic precision with newfound ease.

There is a coolness and a toughness, but also a sensitivity—an awareness of construction, of materials, and still more, of what is going on in the greater world—at play.

Featuring a first look at a Fat Tire motorcycle boot created in collaboration with UAS (Under Armour Sportswear) – for which Coppens is executive creative director – and sunglasses made with Berlin-based eyewear brand Mykita.

LFWM AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SHOW – XimonLee

GQ China is proud to present XIMONLEE at London Collections Men Autumn / Winter 2017. Marking GQ China’s ongoing collaboration at London Fashion Week Mens and sees XIMONLEE join the growing list of Chinese menswear brands to show internationally, highlighting the important of Chinese menswear in the global arena and London as the heart of men’s fashion.

 

Since graduating from Parsons with the Best Menswear Designer Award in 2014, Berlin-based Chinese born Korean designer Ximon Lee has been taking his collection to brand-new places. After winning the H&M Design Award in 2015 – the first menswear designer to do so – Ximon decided to start his own eponymous line XIMONLEE. Ximon’s meticulous and highly original work has since made a strong impact within the industry.

 

Ximon views each season as a study, the realization of a sustainable concept to be revisited for the next study after. XIMONLEE’s third study – AW17 “SHAME” – started with the Chinese symbol for “shame” (羞) which is essentially a combination of the symbols for ‘beauty’ (美) and ‘ugly’（醜) leading to the exploration of the lines between conscious and unconscious.

 

However “SHAME” serves more as a play on material memories – illustrated through hidden signals or messages. Whether covered with a tapered corset hiding the body or revealing that same body through engineered cut-aways. Or while masking the boy through clusters of beaded pearls on sheer panels.

 

A succession of deconstructed leather bras mixed with bonded velvet coats hinting at the leg through high slits. Or through a series of nude figures that are woven into bloodstain and aged bronze brocade.

 

study of “SHAME”:

 

nipple / PEARL | neck / CUT-AWAY | torso / SHEER | back / HARNESS  

 

Show Contact

ximonlee@tcs-uk.net

 

XIMONLEE Press Contact

press@ximonlee.com